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Welcome to the 485th issue of SnapShot! Hello,
Would you like to take your photography to the next level - specifically, the pro level? Over at his BetterPhotoJim blog, Jim Miotke offers some great insights, including this piece of advice: It's not an either/or choice - do your day job AND build your business. Jim tells you how. Click here for his thoughts on the subject... ... In this issue of SnapShot, don't miss Deborah Sandidge's Featured Blog (Expand Your Creativity with a Fisheye Lens!) and a fine collection of questions and answers. ... That's it for now. Have fun with your photography!Kerry Drager
Newsletter Editor Where is Jim Miotke? Follow BetterPhoto's founder and president on Twitter - BetterPhotoJim - and in his blog: jim.betterphoto.com
Updates From BetterPhoto
A very cool aspect of using a fisheye lens is that it allows you to be very creative! Deborah Sandidge shares her thoughts in her BetterPhoto Instructor Insights blog... Then try a 4-week or 8-week online photography adventure! Our courses are affordable and fit right into your busy schedule. Learn more... What an exciting goal that Ansel Adams had: Create a masterpiece every month! Now BetterPhoto is paying homage to this legendary photographer with our Masterpiece of the Month Membership. As a Masterpiece member, you'll receive monthly assignments and private newsletters, and enjoy great discussions. How cool is that!?! Learn more...
Photo Q&A
1: Difference Between Micro and Macro? What is the difference between a micro and a macro lens? This would be used for the Details and Macro category of the contest. Thank you, Merna - Merna L. Nobile
ANSWER 1: Photographically, macro is getting close enough to small things or details that you can still see with your eye, and getting a large image of it.
Micro would be actually hooking a camera up to a microscope for details or things that you would need a microscope to see. - Gregory La Grange
ANSWER 2: Technically speaking, Gregory is correct. However, Nikon/Nikkor uses the term "Micro" to describe its line of lenses which will focus to 1:1 (or 1:2).
(...so what's in a name?)
- Bob Cammarata
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2: How to Best Use Stabilization in Canon Lens I have purchased a "used" Canon telephone lens - 100-400mm zoom - and I love it. It has two settings for stabilization on the lens. I most often use it on a "monopod" when taking surfing shots. What is the "Canon" recommended or best way to use or not use the stabilization in either I mode, or II mode, or not at all? Thanks for your response ahead of time. - Daryl R. Lucarelli
ANSWER 1: Mode I is for handheld use, where your movements may be in any direction. Mode II is for panning shots, where you are tracking a subject horizontally and the IS will correct only for up/down camera movement. On a monopod, you can use either, or simply turn IS off since you may be sufficiently stabilized. Fully supported on a solid tripod, Canon's recommendation is to turn IS off on early generation IS lenses: EF 75-300 f/4-5.6 IS USM (discontinued), EF 300 f/4L IS USM, EF 28-135 f/3.5-5.6 IS USM, and EF 100-400 f/4.5-5.6L IS USM). This is because the IS can be fooled by the lack of motion and start acting erratically trying to correct motion that isn't there. - Jon Close
ANSWER 2: Awesome....crisp, clear, and concise answer. I really appreciate your professionalism and passion in your responses. This is the type of thing that keeps me with BetterPhoto through the years - along with the classes. Thanks again for your information and your courtesy and time! - Daryl R. Lucarelli
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3: Photographing Bees On a sunny day, how would you shoot a bee? What settings would I use on a cloudy day? F9 and 1/320 seem to work. What I don't understand is why a fast shutter speed of 1/1000/f5.6 or higher gives a blur. - mikey magden
ANSWER 1:
F-5.6 won't give you much depth of field when you get in close to a small critter like a bee. The "blur" is likely the out-of-focus parts in front of and behind the point of critical focus.
Your best bet on a sunny day is to select an aperture setting of at least f-16, shield the sun with your body and use flash as your primary illumination. Your shutter spe ed should be set at the maximum flash sync speed.
You will have an acceptable level of depth of field (the range of sharpness from front to back in an image), and the flash will freeze the action.
The same setting will work on a cloudy day (...although you won't need to worry about blocking out the sun.)
- Bob Cammarata
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